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News & Features
One man's guide to Narragansett Bay
Story and photos by Ken Packie
For Points East
It is easy to make the argument that Newport, R.I., and Narragansett Bay is the epicenter of East Coast boating. Now these are strong words and sure to raise eyebrows as far away as Annapolis, Oyster Bay, Hyannis, Marblehead or Camden. Nevertheless, Narragansett Bay certainly has the credentials to lay claim to that title.
It is a perfect early-season weekend destination if you are within a five-hour sail of this beautiful cruising area. The protected waters afford calmer seas and the surrounding land warms things up. Fog is less prevalent than in other regions, and the early season has fewer boats. Stonington (Conn.) Cruising Club has celebrated both Memorial Day and the Fourth of July in and about the bay for many years.
As you boat around Narragansett Bay, names such as Poppasquash Neck, Kickamuit River, Conanicut Island, and Pettasquamscutt River reveal a bay history rich in Native American lore. And it is impossible to ply these waters in your motorboat or sailboat without constant reminders of the early pre-European history of this beautiful bay. Just as evident is the influence of the Pilgrim settlement led by Roger Williams: Names like Prudence Island, Patience Island, Hope Island, Providence and Jamestown point to that heritage. This body of water must have been an incredible fishery, opening as it does into the Atlantic Ocean in Rhode Island Sound and fed by myriad rivers and streams. The natural harbors, coves and bights and the beautiful sheltered waters are some of the most inviting along the eastern seaboard, and the passages are extremely deep, gouged out as they were during the Wisconsin Ice Age. The navigation hazards are few and well marked.
More recently in time, the British and then the U.S. navies have left their imprint on the bay. Looking at your charts it is soon apparent that this area is steeped in a naval tradition that rivals both those of the original natives and early settlers: The U.S. Naval War College, old torpedo ranges and historic forts dot the shoreline. Did you know that the Quonset hut was developed by the Navy at Quonset, R.I., on the bay? When considering recreational boat lore such as America's Cup racing, a cruise through Newport will find many of the J-Class and 12-meter boats afloat as well. The presence of the New York Yacht Club's summer home in Newport also brings the biannual Newport Bermuda Race fleet, a spectacle worth coming to see.
So where to begin and how to organize such an expansive boating area? The bay can be divided into three or four major regions: East Passage, West Passage, Mt. Hope Bay, and the Sakonnet River. Cities such as Providence, Newport and Fall River, Mass., all benefit from their proximity to Narragansett Bay. Even with these population centers ringing the bay, there's plenty of room for boating. In fact, it may not be possible to design a place that has more to offer the boating fraternity.
Summer winds are often light in the morning, but as the land temperatures rise, a sea breeze will build to 20 knots by mid- to late afternoon and lay down again when you are ready to anchor for the evening. With the major passages running north and south, it is often possible to have nice reaches among the many islands scattered about. Currents are relatively modest, rarely over one knot except in a few constricted areas such as south of Newport near Castle Rock and the Sakonnet River narrows, where two knots and more can flow.
If you are visiting the bay for the first time, you will find that the entrances can be uncomfortable and confused at times. With currents running parallel to the Rhode Island coast, Point Judith poking out, and Block Island forming another constriction, currents can be strong enough that an opposing wind can make for choppy areas. Also, with currents running in and out of the bay and a swell coming in from the Atlantic, four- or five-foot swells can set up a roller-coaster ride across the entrances.
These conditions, while uncomfortable, will soon dissipate as you head up the bay or turn the corner at Point Jude. Coming down from Cuttyhunk, it is a short run of about three or four hours by sail. After clearing Brenton Reef at R “2” , proceed toward Beavertail Point at the tip of Conanicut island (Jamestown) and choose either West Passage or East Passage.
Every recreational mariner has his favorite spots, and I'm no exception. With so much to choose from in the bay, let's take a cruise up the West Passage and back down the East Passage, offering some highlights on my favorites. Coming from the west leave R “4” to port as you pass by the entrance to Point Judith Harbor of Refuge. If a big sea is running, you may want to give Point Jude an even wider berth.
The West Passage
Once you're clear of the point and can see the Newport Bridge (technically, the Claiborne Pell Bridge), turn in that direction and continue parallel to the coast on your port side. Whatever unpleasant condition you may have been experiencing – wind, fog, swell, temperature – will improve as you head north. You will see Beavertail Light up ahead, and you will leave this and Beaver Neck to starboard and leave Whale Rock (Fl G 4s “3”) to port as you approach the West Passage.
The first harbor to starboard, tucked in behind Dutch Island, is Dutch Harbor. Dutch Harbor Boatyard (www.dutchharborboatyard.com) operates here and offers moorings and launch service for transients. This is one of my favorite spots on the bay. It's well protected (except from the northwest), a nice yard, access to Jamestown and several good restaurants, not too far from the beaten track, plus there's a ferry to take you over to Newport.
This yard recently changed hands, but I stopped here this Memorial Day and all seems right with the world at Dutch. In addition to the launch, there's a dinghy dock and an easy three-quarter-mile stroll to the other side of the island and Jamestown village. Restaurants, ships chandlery and a hardware store are all in the town. You can contact Dutch Harbor Boatyard on VHF Channel 69.
Several anchorage areas are in Dutch Harbor, and I have always found a spot to set the hook. One is at the south end of the harbor east of Beaver Head in nine feet. A larger area is on the east side of the harbor, north of the mooring field, in 15 feet.
Dutch Island, which forms the western side of the harbor, was called Quotenis by the local Indians. The Dutch West India Trading Company set up a trading post on the Island in 1625. Six acres were purchased by the Government in 1825 for a lighthouse. The island was used during the Civil War by the 14th Regiment of Heavy Artillery, and Fort Greble was built following the Spanish American War. Fort Greble was a German prisoner-of-war camp during WWI and WWII. Today, the island is part of the Bay Islands Park system of Rhode Island owned by the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management.
Proceeding north up the West Passage, under the Jamestown Bridge (technically, the Jamestown Verrazano Bridge) and past Plum Beach Lighthouse, you will pass Fox Island (leave to port), and soon Wickford Harbor will be to port. Pass through the breakwater into the outer harbor, and Wickford Cove will be back to the south while Mill Cove is in the northwest. The outer harbor contains moorings in seven to 10 feet of water. North and south of the mooring field, it shoals quickly. Wickford is a lovely old town with several marinas, yacht clubs and restaurants to keep you busy. Brewer's Wickford Cove Marina (www.byy.com/wickford/index.cfm) is the largest of the marine facilities, but not the only one. Wickford Yacht Club (http://wickfordyc.org) has several guest moorings and their link provides good local knowledge. This is a crowded harbor with some thin water.
East Greenwich in Greenwich Bay and Warwick Cove are the next major boating areas along this coast and can provide all services. Although not as scenic as Wickford, East G (as it known locally) is a very nautical harbor and is the next harbor to port after leaving Wickford.
Bristol is a “must-see” destination when cruising in the bay. Fourth of July here is one of the more inspiring events you can attend. The parade is awesome, and the fireworks are among the best on the bay. However, you need to secure a mooring early in the season for this holiday. There are several alternatives for obtaining a mooring during your visit, and anchoring is also possible. Bristol Marine (www.bristolmarine.com), Bristol Yacht Club (www.bristolyc.com) and the Herreshoff Marine Museum and America‘s Cup Hall of Fame (www.herreshoff.org) all provide services, and all operate launches. Bristol Marine and the yacht club are on Poppasquash Neck on the west side of the harbor, while the museum is on the east side, most convenient to the town. Bristol is a lovely old town where you can wander through the residential areas to see the traditional homes of Bristol.
Bristol Harbor is exposed to the southwest and can be “rolly,” even though somewhat protected by Hog Island. The fetch to Prudence Island to the west of Bristol is short. Hazards are well marked, but shoal water extends north of Hog Island. There are two approaches to the harbor: You can come in either east or west of Hog Island, and both approaches are straightforward.
If your destination is the museum, then the east channel is a little easier. Herreshoff mooring field will be to starboard, just before you get to the old water tower and brick building. There is often a blue-and-white-striped tent on the waterfront and the dinghy dock will be just to the south of this. The Museum monitors VHF 68 and can be reached by phone at 401-253-5000. The waterfront Manager is Brad Gove. Anchorage is possible outside and to the south of the Herreshoff mooring field.
Farther up the harbor is the Bristol Yacht Club, to the west of the mooring field that fills the inner harbor. They can be reached by phone 401-253-2922 or on VHF 68. There is a fuel dock at the yacht club. This is a very friendly club that's hospitable to fellow boaters and maintains a very nice facility. Getting to town is a long walk, but possible, and for special events the launch may run a shuttle to the town side of the harbor
Another option is Bristol Marine, just north of the yacht club. This yard has a long history of boatbuilding going back to Pearson and Bristol Yachts. They can be reached on 401-253-2200. All repairs can be made here, and transient moorings are available. Many restaurants are available in Bristol. A few that we have enjoyed are Roberto's Restaurant, 301 Hope St., 401-254-9732; Leo's, 365 Hope St., 401-253-9300; and the Lobster Pot, 119 Hope St., 401-253-9100.
The East Passage
Leaving Bristol and going south down the East Passage will bring you into the most active area for boating on the bay. In addition to a very active recreational flotilla, military vessels, large commercial ships and fishing boats keep you on your toes at times. Prudence Island is to starboard, with Potter Cove near the north end, opposite the tip of Poppasquash Neck. This area has a nice sandy beach that is part of the park system. All moorings in the cove are private, but anchoring is permitted. The Cove, Prudence Island and Portsmouth are under the control of the Portsmouth Police Department (http://portsmouthpoliceri.com/harbormaster.htm).
Continuing south down the East Passage, Portsmouth will be to port. If you need repairs, this is a good place to know about. New England Boatworks, Alden, Hinckley, and North Sails are all located here. Fuel and any repair services can be obtained. There is a fine seacoast restaurant, the Melville Grille where you can find a refreshing dark'n stormy, but no provisioning within walking distance. Farther down the passage, the U.S. Naval War College will be to port. Two aircraft carriers can be seen weathering away their days.
Once under the Newport Bridge and headed south, the town of Jamestown will be to starboard (to the west) and Newport to port (to the east). This is the heart of sailing in the Bay. J-boats, 12-meters, New York 42s, and all types of sailing dinghies, pepper the water, and the entrance to Newport often resembles a beehive, with traffic flowing into and out of the harbor in front of Fort Adams.
Jamestown is much less frantic and a great place to pick up a mooring from which to observe the daily show. This area is open to the northeast so it can be uncomfortable if the wind is up from that direction. Conanicut Marina (http://conanicutmarina.com) is close to Jamestown village and is excellent marina with launch service, dinghy dock and clean shoreside facilities. They monitor VHF 71 and can be phoned at 401-423-7158. Liquor store, ice-cream parlor, deli, and marine and hardware stores are all within a block or so of the waterfront. A favorite restaurant: Trattoria Simpatico (401-423-3731, www.trattoriasimpatico.com) is also a block away.
No visit to the Bay is complete without a stop in Newport. As you enter the harbor, Ida Lewis Yacht Club and New York Yacht Club are off to starboard in Brenton Cove. You can anchor north of the mooring field here, south of the channel. Moorings are made available on the day of your visit and cannot be reserved in advance. Several yacht clubs such as Ida Lewis offer transient moorings in addition to Old Port Marine, which manages the town moorings and operates the launch for the harbor. The main public mooring field is farther up in the harbor and to the north. Just continue to follow the channel, which runs east and then north along the face of the many docks located on the east side of the harbor. Contact Old Port (www.oldportmarine.com, VHF 68) or the harbormaster (Monday through Friday, 0800-1600, phone 401-845-5815, VHF 16 for assistance in finding a mooring).
Once you decide to head home, be sure to look astern at the Newport Bridge, with fleets of classic sailboats framed between her support towers. Savor the sights such as the historic lighthouses at Castle Hill, Beavertail and Rose Island. Try to process how much beauty is contained in the relatively small bay. And remember this, for it is true:
This short cruise around the heart of the bay will leave you with the desire to come back to explore with your own vessel, power or sail, when you have the time to linger for a week and poke into Mt. Hope Bay and down the Sakonnet River as well as up to Providence. But this is why we cruise, isn't it? To embark on our personal voyages of discovery.
Regular Contributor Ken Packie is a founding member of the Stonington (Conn.) Cruising Club. As we edited this article, he was on his way to Bermuda to help return the Hinkley Sou'wester 59 Cetacea to Newport after the Marion-Bermuda Race.
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