The pints of Haagen Dazs chocolate sorbet we spotted in the freezer of the general store may have had something to do with our decision to spend another day moored in the Isle au Haut thorofare. That and the fact that the Acadia National Park trails on the southwestern side of the island still needed to be hiked.

Having placed Tanzer on a vacant honor-system rental mooring across from the town landing, we were perfectly positioned for familiarizing ourselves with one of the jewels of Penobscot Bay. This was our first trip to Isle au Haut, though more than one friend had highly recommended the island as a worthwhile stop. The weather had cooperated, allowing for a fog-free passage from Rockland through the Fox Island Thorofare, across East Penobscot Bay to our next land adventure.

The adventure started with a search for the Mount Champlain trail described as "immediately beyond the Point Lookout Road" in Taft & Rindlaub's "A Cruising Guide to the Coast of Maine." We had trouble distinguishing driveways from roads as we traveled northeast along the perimeter road. We had passed the post office and the General Store. The Union Congregational Church's boardwalk was obvious. The natural food store was on our left as we continued walking. In addition to fruits and veggies, the store sells Stonewall Kitchen products among other specialty-type foods. Homemade pies can also be purchased there.

When we finally found the trail, we figured Point Lookout Road must have been one of the offshoots that appeared to be another driveway to us. We also determined that it was a less traveled path than we were prepared for. The brush was too high; the trail was too narrow. We opted to stay on the main road for a while before turning back toward the town landing.

After a stop for ice cream sandwiches at the well-stocked General Store, (which is when we noted the chocolate sorbet), we met a couple at the town landing who had ferried over from Stonington to Duck Harbor that morning. They had hiked the Duck Harbor Trail to town, where they were waiting for the 4 p.m. ferry to return to the mainland. They informed us that the ranger station and park trails were to the south of the village.

So we trekked back up the landing's hill, turning right this time. Enroute to the ranger station, we passed the High Island Crafts store on our left. We were on a mission, so although it looked like we could find a hand-made treasure as a souvenir we pressed on. At the ranger station, the Duck Harbor trail joins the main road. It has an outhouse, posts pertinent information about the island and has maps available detailing the national park trails. Armed with a trails guide, we were looking forward to continuing our exploration of this delightful island.

Our second day on shore began with a right turn at the crest of the town landing. We had determined that the best way to reach Duck Harbor would be by hitching. Another couple from Providence, R.I., whom we met moored in the thorofare, hiked the Duck Harbor and Eben's Head trails to the Duck Harbor Landing, where they caught the 6 p.m. ferry that shuttled them from there to the town landing for $2 each. That would have been a great way to travel from point A to B. We got lucky, though. Before we arrived at the ranger station, we had our first ride. We hopped into the back of a small pickup truck for a lift to the road that leads out to Robinson Point, where the lighthouse property has been transformed into a unique "resort" called The Keeper's House. Innkeepers, Jeff and Judi Burke have been welcoming guests to their home for 16 years. With gaslights and no telephones or television, a stay there would be extremely relaxing.

Since the lighthouse is nearly 3 miles north of Duck Harbor, we wasted no time seeking out another ride. The next vehicle appeared within five minutes. Our benefactor was a year-round resident teen who happened to have enough time to take us all the way to Duck Harbor. The unpaved road that leads south from Robinson Point is a rough, jolting single lane. We wondered what it would be like to encounter another car approaching from the opposite direction.

We were about to find out. Our young driver and the driver of the northbound vehicle hit the brakes as they spotted each other. Each crept toward the shoulder to let the other pass. The four-wheel drive had the advantage and sidled by our handsome pickup truck within inches. The two drivers recognized each other and exchanged greetings as they passed. But soon the truck ended up in a deep, soft rut that made it difficult to pull out. The woman driver and passenger of the car got out to push the truck, which stopped going forward when the right tire met a large rock.

Tim got out of the truck to help the women push the truck backwards instead. The other car was moved up the road farther so that there was room for the truck. With three people pushing and me offering moral support to our young driver, he gunned his pickup in reverse, missing a tree by one-eighth of an inch. He knew that if he stopped, he would have been stuck for a long time. Fortunately, he maneuvered the truck back onto the road without doing any damage.

After thank-yous to our helpers, our driver proudly informed us that the other driver had been Linda Greenlaw, author of "The Hungry Ocean." Tim had been shoulder to shoulder with a celebrity. We would see Linda again before we left her pretty island.

We continued on to the limited access road leading to Duck Harbor Landing without further incident. We thanked our capable driver for his generosity and finally started the hiking part of our trip.

First we investigated the anchorage and docking facilities. We were surprised to discover that our drive to the harbor had taken the same amount of time that it had taken the schooner Isaac H. Evans, which had been untangling a lobster pot in the thorofare as we dinghied to shore (even the big kids can get caught up in all those traps.) From the ferry landing, we climbed to the summit of Duck Harbor Mountain, glimpsing first just the white tips of the schooner's masts, then the entire boat as we overlooked the harbor and what seemed to be all of East Penobscot Bay.

We descended by re-tracing our steps. Once we were back at the harbor level, we changed our original plan of returning to town via the Duck Harbor Trail to completing an Isle au Haut circumnavigation. Long Pond, a 1.5-mile-long freshwater swimming hole on the east side of the island beckoned. The east side road appeared to be more developed than the west side, leading us to believe that a ride back to town would be more easily obtained from Long Pond. But no cars passed us as we followed the road approximately two miles to the southern tip of the island. The beauty of Head Harbor, where the road turns northward, struck us. When we reached the pond, coincidently, the same woman who had given us our first ride that morning was approaching her truck after a refreshing swim.

At a picnic table by the beach we stopped to eat the light lunch that we had packed, then continued working our way to town. Shortly we came upon our lady friend in a field across from her truck. Saying "hello again," we walked on. As she drove up to us on her way home, she stopped to offer a ride since it was a long walk back. Figuring that she knew what she was talking about, and having seen no other cars since being dropped at Duck Harbor, we accepted the lift.

It was a long way ­ at least 5 miles. We were thankful that she had stopped for us. We were also pleased when she asked us to help her with a light chore once we reached her house. It turns out she is a long-time summer resident of the island. Her house, built in 1820, is one of the three oldest homes on Isle au Haut. We had admired it when we had passed it the day before. How lucky we felt to be asked inside.

With thoughts of chocolate sorbet still in our heads, we thanked our new friend before making the General Store the next stop on our circumnavigation. Instrumental as it was in enticing us to stay, the sorbet would not be the highlight of our day. Watching the arrival of the 4 p.m. ferry would be.

We saw two boats ferrying passengers and cargo from Stonington to the island, the Miss Lizzie and the Mink. The Mink had been the 4 p.m. ferry the two days we were there. Being on the dock when she offloaded cargo was an experience. It was fascinating to watch groceries for the store, furniture for two new residents, and bathtubs and windows for construction projects being hoisted from the boat to the dock via a crane at low tide. It is an event.

There were many residents there waiting for packages or saying good-bye to guests returning to the mainland. Linda Greenlaw was there with her friend, Patty, who runs Penobscot Bay Provisions in Stonington with her husband. It was because of Patty's visit that we had encountered each other circumnavigating the island. We told Linda that our young driver had filled us in on who she was after we had driven away and that we had enjoyed reading her book. She was writing another in between working approximately 600 lobster traps. We asked permission to use her name in this story, but since we did not ask our drivers to use theirs, they'll have to remain anonymous. When they read this, they'll know who they are. We are grateful to them for contributing to our memorable Isle au Haut adventure.

Paula Harrington and her husband, Tim Purrington, operate a boat and breakfast on Penobscot Bay.